With March coming to a close, I have been hiking for one month now. It doesn't feel like a month has gone by. Even though as I walk, time sometimes seems to stretch on forever and days feel long. The month has felt short.

On Monday, I'll cross into Ohio! I'm thrilled to be getting to a new state. I look forward to the new challenges Ohio has in store for me. Even more exciting is the warming weather. I'll get to see spring bloom across Ohio. Also excited to be sending back some winter clothes, this will lighten up my pack a bit. Soon it's sky's out thighs out.

This morning was nice, I went to the restaurant in the hotel for Sunday brunch buffet. All you can eat oysters, yes please! I went up to the buffet four times. A man at the table next to me, was celebrating his 90th birthday. He turned to me and asked: "what mountain did you come climbing off of?" I told him about my hike and he was impressed. He gave me his card, he is a Bahái. He was telling me about how he knew the original owner of the hotel. This is a registered historic hotel. I wished him a happy birthday on my way out.

I went upstairs and hand washed all my clothes. There is no laundromat nearby and it would have costs $15 for the hotel to wash them. They've been drying all day, hopefully they'll be fully dry by morning.

Brown and I went for a walk to grab some sandwiches. We strolled through a historic neighborhood with awesome old  homes. On the way back we watched the sunset over the Parkersburg-Belpre bridge. A nice zero day.

I forgot to mention in the last post but Brown's backpack broke. So I've got to tie the straps together somehow. Had to buy a new one but won't have it until I pick up my mail in Chesterhill. I also have to run into the grocery store on my way out of town to pick up food for him.

Thank you readers.

"This is for the snakes and the people they bite;
For the friends I’ve made; for the sleepless nights;
For the warning signs I’ve completely ignored.
There’s an amount to take, reasons to take more."

Thursday

Woke up in the middle of the night, shivering. Nineteen degrees. I put on my warmer jacket, ate two cereal bars and went back to sleep. An hour later Brown woke up, awkwardly crawled out of the foot of my sleeping bag and stood at the door to the tent. I knew he had to poop, he had been stinking up the tent all night. I let him out; it was taking awhile, a put on my shoes and exit into the cold darkness. I was calling for him for a hot minute before I saw a large shape running towards me. My beast. We crawled back into the tent. I open the sleeping bag and he crawls to the bottom. Zip up, back to bed.

I woke up again around nine, ate a pop tart and a cereal bar, which didn't even get a rise out of brown. He's still passed out. I join him and fall back asleep. I woke up again at eleven and decided we had been lazy long enough. I ate an apple, and peanut butter crackers and start packing up. On the move by noon.

It had significantly warmed up. High of sixty degrees today. Cloudy, light breeze. The rail trail is awesome, I'm traveling through tunnels, over creeks, between rock walls. It's enjoyable. Mosquitoes were out but I was layered enough they couldn't get me.

I stopped in Ellensboro at a gas station. I purchased beef jerky for Brown, two gatorades, a bottle of water, a root beer and a magnum ice cream. Downed the ice cream and root beer right away, strapped the water to my pack and got moving. It was at this point I remembered I wanted to get to the post office in Cairo today. We moved quickly racing through the forest following the creek. A few miles later, I thought to check the time the post office closes. Four thirty. I was three miles out at four o'clock. I wasn't going to make it.

I looked at my map and decided I was approaching the trail for North Bend State Park. I veer off and find a camp ground and pavilion. The pavilion has a large fire place and I began to build a fire. Shortly after a car pulls up and Brown went running towards it and jumped in through the front passenger window. Thankfully the guy thought it was cool a dog could do that and loves dogs. I felt really bad but he was cool about it. Side note: people have been really nice to offer us rides. When this happens the car pulls over and Brown jumps in the back. So now whenever he sees a car approach us and pull over, he thinks we're getting off the trail and going for a ride. I like to hope that's what happened here and that Brown doesn't hate me now and want to run away from me.

The woman and child that were in the car went off to play on the playground. The man came over and played with Brown while I got the fire started. I told him about my walk and he thought it was cool. He asked me several times, where I had started, where I was hiking to and if he could have my dog. Before he left he gave me $5.60 and told me to buy some dog food with it.

Unfortunately this campground is closed until mid-April. That means that the water is off and the bathrooms are locked. I wait until the sun is very low and set my tent up under the pavilion. Eighty percent chance of all day rain tomorrow. Just when I'm about to cook dinner, a lodge/SP employee comes down in his truck and says: I don't know how to tell you this but you can't camp under here. I explained to him the rain, my journey, I'll be gone early. He tells me he'll check with his supervisor to see if they could bend the rules for me and will be right back. Ten minutes later, he's back. Tells me it is my lucky day, he can't find his supervisor so I can stay as long as I'm gone before the morning crew arrives at eight. I thank him and promise I'll be gone. I had mac and cheese for dinner.

The wind is picking up, I'm sure rain is on the way.


Friday

I wanted to wake up early so as to be out of the pavilion by eight as I had promised the park ranger. I woke up at seven, went back to sleep. Woke up at 730 and got took down the tent. Fortunately it only lightly rained from 7-9. No big deal, I was barely wet.

We arrived in Cairo to pick up a resupply package. First I went into a bike shop/grocery store/trail registry. I signed my name and bought some water, ice cream and candy. While outside eating my ice cream the shop owner came out to chat. When he saw I was with a pup he went back in and grabbed three beef jerky sticks, came out and gave them to us. Brown scarfed them down.

I ran across the street to the post office. While in there I was telling the postal workers about my walk. One of them asked if I had eaten breakfast yet? I told him just an apple and a cliff bar. He told me to go into the restaurant across the street and get whatever I wanted, it was on him! I was very grateful, and hungry as always.

I went into the restaurant, ordered two eggs (I like my eggs over easy), hash browns, toast and bacon. $4, what a deal! Anyway,  while waiting for it to be prepared, I struck up conversation with the only other gentleman in the place. I told him about my walk and how I was enjoying all the tunnels on the trail. My food came out and I took it outside to eat with Brown. I tossed him all the bacon and put my eggs between my toast and ate furiously. As I was eating the man from in the restaurant came out and gave me $20, said he wanted to buy my dinner. Three acts of kindness in one town, in one hour. Super awesome.

I continued on the trail. More tunnels up ahead! One of them allegedly haunted. Another one with amazing graffiti inside. I had run out of water a few miles before the town of Walker. I assumed I would be able to pick some up in town but it was just some houses, no store. I began looking for a way down into the creek to grab some water, however,  the drop off was deep and the brush overgrown. At this point I was also looking for a campsite. I wouldn't be able to eat dinner without water. A few minutes later, a biker rides by and stops to offer me his water. Must of read my mind. A few minutes later, I found a way down to the creek. I loaded up on water. I walked a bit further and there was a campsite. Perfect. Twenty five mile day.

A little less than perfect, this campsite had ticks and mosquitoes. I pulled a couple off Brown, set up the tent, made dinner and got ready for bed. It was warm when I went to bed and so I shed all my layers down to my underwear. I crawled into the bag and went to bed. I woke up super cold and Brown crawling into the sleeping bag. A little bit warmer, I fall back asleep.

Saturday

I woke up at nine. Was on the trail by 1030. This was only going to be a thirteen mile day. Short, sweet with a hotel at the end of the day in Parkersburg. I had nine miles left on the trail then onto the street again to head into town. As soon as I got off the trail the rain started. The last four miles I would walk on the shoulder of a busy road in the rain. I made it to the hotel, probably confused the doorman looking like a wet vagrant walking in with my dog.

After my clothes finished drying, I went downstairs for dinner. Since I ran out of dog food, I got a burger to go for Brown. Tomorrow I need to find a grocery store to restock on dog food. This hotel is beautiful and I'm sleepy, so good night.

Thank you readers.

Sunday/Monday/Tuesday/Wednesday

Sunday was a zero day in Grafton since I got stuck there. There was a laundromat a block away from the motel, so I decided I would do my laundry. However, I wanted to wash everything (I have less than two full outfits). I walked a mile up the road to Walmart to buy a cheap t-shirt to wear so I could do all my laundry at once. While there I decided I needed some fruits and veggies in my life (Before this walk I ate kale/collards 2-3 times a day, I was a vegetarian). Maybe because I haven't been to a Walmart in 3-4 years (until last month there were none in DC) but I was saddened by the half aisle dedicated to produce. I grabbed two bags of spring mix, sunflower seeds, an Asian pear, an orange and an apple.

Washing my clothes in a laundromat was a new experience for me. $5 in quarters later, I was back in the hotel room enjoying my salad. Gave Brownie a bath and then just relaxed the remainder of the evening.

Monday morning I was up at eight making moves. I wanted to get to the post office early because I would need to sort everything once I got there. On the way I stopped to see the Mother's Day Shrine. Grafton is where the first Mother's Day was celebrated. Picked up three packages, my food, dog food and a care package from a friend! Thanks!

I walked from Grafton to Bridgeport roughly 22 miles. Mostly on residential country roads. Once you get just outside of Bridgeport you have to hop on a busy road with no shoulder. I got to this stretch at rush hour. This was incredibly frustrating for me as I was scared either Brown or I were going to get hit. A mile and a half later,  we made it to a side street and I turned off. This street took me through a neighborhood with sidewalks. While walking a woman pulled up next to me and asked: what I was training for? I told her I was walking to California. She said: she wished she knew me better, she would have offered me a place to stay the night. There were four young kids in her car, I understand not wanting a stranger camping in your yard. I continued walking and another car pulled up next to me. The man waved me over and I approached. He handed me $50! I was shocked, I thanked him for his extreme generosity. I didn't have a chance to tell him about my walk because cars were honking behind him.

I continued through town to the Bridgeport City Park.  The park was rather busy and is located behind an elementary school. I thought it might look creepy if I pitched my tent, so I waited for a bit. In this time the temperature dropped, (snow in the forecast that evening) so I decided to look for a hotel room. Everything in town was booked. There are 8 hotels all full. Fortunately two miles up the road the Super 8 Motel had one room left. Mine. Turns out with oil and natural gas market is booming in these parts. Workers from out of state are utilizing a majority of the area hotels.

Tuesday morning I woke up to snow fall. Only a light dusting but it would flurry on and off all day. I needed to walk 30 miles that day. I was trying to get far enough so that I could get picked up by the WV ADT coordinators, Sharon and Paul. I walked from 9am to 7:45pm only taking a 20 minute break for ice cream and fried pickles. At one point when Brown lied down and said no more pop, a lady pulled over and handed me $20. I told her about the journey and she offered more, but I refused saying that she had been generous enough and I greatly appreciated it. That was definitely my longest walking day but there was a warm bed and hot meal that I was racing towards.

Paul picked me up and drove me to their lovely home in West Union, WV. I took a shower and came downstairs to salad, deviled eggs and pasta and garlic bread, it was delicious. To top it off, banana cream pie for dessert! I was happy I put in those extra miles to meet them. Such a wonderful and kind couple doing all they can to help.

Wednesday morning, I woke up to the smell of bacon. I ventured downstairs and Sharon was cooking bacon and french toast! I wanted to move in. Everything there was warm, welcoming and perfect. However, like all good things it had to come to an end. Paul drove me back to where he picked me up the day before and we said goodbye.

The rest of my journey in WV is on an old rail trail. So glad to be off roads and on a trail again. I should be in Ohio Sunday or Monday!  Looking forward to crossing WV off the list and saying hello Ohio.

It's going to be a cold one tonight, low of 23. However, my new slogan is: if I can take on knee deep snow at 4000 feet... I haven't been able to finish it but something along the lines of nothing can stop me.

Thank you readers. Sorry for the delay in posts. And fewer than usual pictures. I've been putting in extra miles and have been exhausted.

"If the sun is on its way, then we will never die and we'll follow these tracks"

Three weeks on the trail.

Left the Moatsville United Methodist Church this morning with Grafton on my mind. I somehow thought if I walked fast enough I could walk 20 miles and make it to the post office before they closed. I'm a day behind schedule and was supposed to pick up my resupply box on Friday. 

So I hurried up and down hills, past farm after farm. Until I made it to Tygart Lake State Park. I phoned my momma to ask what time the post office closed. Turns out it closes at 10am not 1pm as I thought. At this point it was too late. I would have to stay in Grafton until Monday. So I slowed down, and enjoyed the views of Tygart Lake.

From here it was a short walk to Grafton, I passed a couple of guys my age hanging out on their porch. They looked at me strange at first but after we talked about what I was doing, they thought it was the coolest thing ever.

Gonna have to take a zero day tomorrow. Hopefully I can wash my clothes, they smell so bad. So does Brown.

Today marks three weeks on the trail. I feel positive about my journey and look forward to warmer weather and flatter land.

Today's food craving: strawberry lemonade, conch fritters, something from Angelico's.


Thank you readers.

"It's empty in the valley of your heart
The sun, it rises slowly as you walk
Away from all the fears
And all the faults you've left behind"

Nestorville United Methodist Church to Moatsville United Methodist Church. Basically I'm church hopping.

Today started out cloudy with a light sprinkle. The forecast called for highs of 58. I thought it would never happen but late in the afternoon, the sun parted the clouds and sweet glorious spring!

The walk from Nestorville to Phillipi was mostly through sleepy roads dotted with farms and scattered homes. I made my way through town and was stopped by a woman,  she asked if I was on the Civil War Trail. Apparently there is one from Phillipi to Grafton, WV. Phillipi is also where the Civil War began. At least that's what it says on the welcome to Phillipi sign. I told the woman about my journey and she told me she works at the animal shelter and has some free samples she can give me. She gave me some bones for Brown,  he was excited. We thanked her and continued on.

I passed a Hardee's. I don't know that I've ever been to one before. So I decided to try it. I got a turkey burger and onion rings. Should have went to Subway next door. Just up the street is the town magistrate, there is a gazebo on the side so we took our siesta there. I charged my phone, blogged, rested and an hour later decided we better get going. We headed out of town and this is when the sun decided to come out.

The remainder of the walk follows a gravel road along the Tygart River.  A beautiful river, I'm sure kayaking on it would be a lot of fun. Check out my Instagram for a video of the river: nroland1.  There were many places where rocks jutted out into the river and you could walk out on them. Oh how I wish I wasn't in a race against the sunset. I would have stripped down to my bathing suit and layed out on those rocks and then cooled off in the pools of water they collected. Anyway, I continued for what seemed like forever. Then, Moatsville,  not much here, just a sleepy river town.

I found the Moatsville United Methodist Church. The door was unlocked! Shelter! I was sad when I realized that the bathroom door was locked though. However, thankfully I have a ridiculous sweet tooth and went for the candy jar. Sure enough, underneath, was the bathroom key. Simple rewards for being a fat kid. I should mention that by candy I mean peppermint pastel like mints. This place is no Nestorville United Methodist Church, where there are an assortment of cookies and beverages. If I were rating churches by their accommodations... I joke, I'm incredibly grateful.

Currently Brown and I are resting in a pew, one of the few that are padded. Better than the ground, better than pooping outside.

Today's food cravings were: rotisserie chicken with rice and beans, fried yuka and plaintains, bean and cheese pupusas with a cherry lime slushie and orange sherbet.

Thank you readers, thank you lady who gave Brown a bone and thank you Moatsville United Methodist Church.

"Aww but hell I'm just a blind man on the plains,
I drink my water when it rains,
And live by chance among the lightning strikes."

Thank you for your patience, I do not get cell phone reception in many places in West Virginia. So, I'll back track a little bit to where I last updated.

After coming down Dolly Sods, I stayed at the Canaan Valley Lodge. I took a day off the next day (Tuesday) to allow for some snow to melt. With temperatures in the mid 40s, a lot of snow did in fact melt that day. It made me happy to see the ground peering through the snow.  I sweated it up in the sauna, cooled off in the pool, relaxed by the fire in the lodge and caught up on some news and social media. A nice relaxing day.

The next day (Wednesday) I woke up and filled my belly down at the lodge. Headed back to the cabin, threw on my pack, grabbed the pup and out the door we went. The trail cuts through the park and varied from snow, wet, muddy to puddles. All of which I was happy to take on, so long as the snow was no longer mid-shin deep. This was my initial mentality anyway.

After following the trail out of Canaan Valley State Park, I hopped onto Davis Trail to enter Blackwater Falls State Park. So much snow had melted, Davis Trail was looking more like Davis Creek. It wouldn't be long before my shoes/socks/feet were soaked. The sun was shining though, so there was that. I left Davis Trail at Blackwater Falls Horse Stable. This is where Brown and I had lunch, we explored a bit; sadly because of winter,  there were no animals in the barn.

From here we hopped on Yellow Birch Trail which would take us past Blackwater Falls Lodge. Hopped on another trail for what seemed like forever. I was searching for Trail 110. However,  there are so many unlabeled side trails up here on the side of this mountain I began to feel a little lost.  I had to use my GPS to find the way-point to the entrance of the trail. This was especially helpful because the trail was unmarked and a tree was down at the entrance of the trail. It could have been missed completely had I not used my GPS and Backcountry Navigator App. I veered off into the forest. Again you can barely tell there is a trail here, there are a few trees with faded blue spray paint marking the blue blaze trail and so much of the trail is overgrown. This isn't even the worst part of this trail. I must have climbed over, under and tried to go around at least fifty fallen trees; had to back track several times because I lost the blue blazes and like Davis Trail before, much of this trail had turned into a creek as well.

I soon begged for dry feet. It seems as though warmth and dryness are a luxury my toes cannot afford. Just when I thought this section of trail could frustrate me no more: I reached a section of deep snow, sometimes buried beneath were fallen trees to slip on and then it began to rain.

You can imagine my relief when I reached shelter, my guidebook said  this shelter may no longer exist, but it does! In full glory beyond a babbling brooke an old shelter with names carved into it from the 70s and 80s. Of course the rain stopped five minutes after I arrived here. I opened the shelter registry box, usually containing: candles,  matches, fire starter, etc. Not here. In this box under some yarn was three mice, two scurried away and the third leaped out at me and I screamed and then laughed at myself. Since I'm terrified of spiders, I set up my tent in the shelter and drift off to sleep. I've been having some vivid dreams lately or maybe I'm now able to recall them. It's interesting the random people who pop up and the places you build in your mind.

The next morning (Thursday) the temperature had dropped and I awoke to find Brown in the bottom of my sleeping bag. Finally, I pull myself together, shoes still wet, feet still cold. The rest of this trail, from the shelter on, must see more use. No fallen trees, blue spray paint replaced by blue metal nailed into the trees, no overgrowth to push through and slightly dryer. I left this trail to hop on the next one and accidentally went the wrong way, when I noticed I was going up instead of down, I checked my GPS and turned around.  There was a memorial plaque on a large rock for two men whom while on duty died in a plane crash up here back in 1976. I bowed my head for our fallen brothers and kept moving. To my left the mountain drops off into a river down below with many falls and rapids, to my right the mountain climbs. Halfway down the trail, the Sun is out and my shoes begin to feel dry. Until water encompasses the trail, I hop from rock to rock until I slip and my entire left foot goes under. My right foot is still dry, so there's that.

I finally make it to the road, continue on past the town of Hendricks, Hambleton and into Parsons. I stopped in subway to grab some lunch for Brown and I. Then I stopped in Sheets to grab some fuel (Heet) for my camp stove, while inside I get some fried pickles. Side note readers, I love fried pickles, back home I would make oven fried pickles and okra for dinner. We ate our lunch across the street in front of the beautiful Parsons Courthouse, built in 1896. A famous court case was fought here vs the board of education requiring equal pay for African American teachers. I read this on the sign out front. While charging my phone and digesting an EMT walked over to me and inquired about where I was headed.  I told her and she said she remembered a man who came through on the ADT last year with his dog, shotgun.  She offered me a ride to my next campsite and I said please and thank you! It was only three and a half miles up the road, I could have walked but I was feeling lazy after that big lunch.

When we got to where I had asked her to take me, she said there was a campsite a little bit further she would drop me off at. OK I thought. Then she worried that it was too close to the road and she was concerned about my safety, so she drove on. I told her about my hike the day before through the mess of trees, she told me last year, hurricane Sandy hit the area pretty hard. That explains it.  She said that she would take me up the mountain to save me the climb in the morning but she couldn't find a good spot there to drop me off so she drove on to Valley Furnace. This is where I planned to camp the following night, putting me a day ahead of a schedule that I was two days behind on. Once at Valley Furnace we noticed private property signs. Someone had purchased this small campsite and trespassing wasn't allowed. She said she would drive me a little further up the road in the direction of Phillipi, the next larger town on my guidebook. We see a church in Nestorville and I said OK there. She drove me roughly twenty miles. I was grateful and I thanked her for her kindness.

I approached the Nestorville United Methodist Church to ask for permission to camp outside. The door was unlocked but no one was inside. There was tape over the lock on the inside, indicating that these doors are never locked. I signed the guest book, looked around, ate a few cookies (there are so many cookies here) and when I was sure there wasn't going to be a service that evening, I brought Brown inside.  We're currently on a large black leather sofa in the front room. Happy to have shelter from the rain/snow that's coming, a soft bed, cookies, a bathroom and although the heat is off, it's warmer than outside.

Thank you readers. Thank you Sharlene? For the ride. Thank you Nestorville United Methodist Church for always keeping your doors open and hosting me this evening. Good night.

"Oh, north country winters keep a-getting me down
Lost my money playing poker so I had to leave town
But I ain't turning back to living that old life no more"

If I never see snow again, I wouldn't mind. The storm that came through the area was ridiculous. But first a quick recap of Saturday.

Saturday was a glorious hiking day, the sun was shining, the birds a chirping, the cows a mooing as I walked by. I went from farm lands to river valley to sleepy residential roads. I finally got to roughly where I knew I would camp and started looking for a spot.  As I'm walking a young man sees me and walks over, it was easy to explain my walk because there was an ADT trail marker adjacent his home. He had walked up to me to bum a cigarette,  I told him that I don't smoke. He then asked to borrow some money so he could get some from the store. I don't condone smoking cigarettes but needing a place to camp, not wanting to upset the locals and wanting to know where this store was, I gave him the $5 that was given to me the day before. He pointed me in the direction of the store, said it was just up the road a bit and pointed out three local churches as well. Before I walked away, he warned me about coyotes, something I had never even considered.  Off I went to the store. However, after a long, hot day of hiking Brown was not having it and lied right down in the road. I decided the store could wait until morning.

I headed to a church to make camp. Two of the churches had Sunday morning service and the third had Sunday evening service. Not wanting to disrupt anyone in the morning, I chose the third. Davis Baptist Church, services were every 1st and 3rd Sunday at 6pm. Perfect. I made camp on the side of the church. Side note: the night before I camped at Antioch Methodist Church. While I would ask permission if there was a pastor on duty or a phone number to call; I feel churches are fair game because I can just say I'm on a pilgrimage and came to hear you preach or something of that sort.

Anyway, when I woke up it was chilly. Always makes it harder to get going, but I had to get to the store and back to the trail and head up a mountain, so I needed to move. I headed up the road to find the store and began to think maybe this kid had lied to me. Two miles later a small grocery/convenient store, I was relieved, but also upset about the four mile round trip. The clerk looked at me and immediately asked if I was on the American Discovery Trail, I said yes and he wanted to know more.  I purchased tangerine, passion fruit, black berry candy canes, a can of dog food, gatorade, water, four packs of hot hands (3/pack) and new gloves. I inquired about the weather, since I haven't had cell phone reception to check. He said that they said some snow but it has been so dry that he didn't think more than an inch or two. That's not too bad I thought. 

I headed back to the trail and followed the road past farms then a residential area until finally, the trail up the mountain, Dolly Sods. Phew it seemed like I was climbing forever. At what I thought may have been halfway, we sat down for a late lunch. No sooner did we finish lunch did the flurries start. Normally I let Brown take a thirty minute nap after lunch, but today I wanted to beat the snow to the top of the mountain. We continued our climb. Flurries turned to snow and as I got higher, they joined snow on the ground that hadn't melted yet from the last time it snowed. When I got to the top or what I thought was the top, it looked like I was in the snow cloud. There were glaciers on the trail, well large mounds of frozen ice, but to me, glaciers!  Probably about three or four inches on the ground when we got to Red Creek Campsite with the snow still falling like crazy. There would be no way to start a fire or pitch my tent. I found the bathroom,  a 5' by 7' roomy for a campsite bathroom. I made a decision that this would be our shelter for the evening.  It was rather clean, the road up the mountain had been closed since January so it probably hadn't seen much if any use since before then.

While this was shelter, it was anything but warm. The concrete floor, the vent in the wall, the cracks beneath the door, all seemed to allow frigid air inside. I wedged my things against the door to block snow from blowing in. I cracked open my hot hands and tried to warm up. I ate two dinners that night. The steam from the boiling water made it warm but I knew this would freeze by morning. Brown and I snuggled up and drifted off. I woke up a few times in the night to break out more hot hands and would toss them to the bottom of my sleeping bag. Side note: I recommend the hot feet not the hot hands, they were warmer for sure.

Sure enough there were ice crystals on everything in the am. I opened the door to see if the snow had stopped, nope still going. I crawled back into the sleeping bag and tried to plan how I would get off this mountain in a foot of snow. I decided to try calling for help but with no signal, I had no luck. I knew I didn't want to be stuck up there and the only way off the top of this mountain (4000ft) was to trek through the snow. I looked at my guidebook and decided I would deviate from the trail and take the alternate, in case of snow route down. In hindsight, I don't think it would have mattered considering both routes were covered. All packed up, we got moving. Snow midway up my shins and just below my knees in some places, the trail still had some incline to it. Every mile seemed like five. With a newly instilled fear of coyotes, I looked behind me, convinced I was being followed. Probably just in my mind. It was exhausting. I had only one liter of water and after I finished that I was so dehydrated I drank from the stream along the trail that alternated from frozen to not. I didn't treat the water and hoped because I was so high up this water would be OK to drink. My feet were soaked and cold, I knew stopping would mean frostbite, so I wiggle my toes with every step.  After several miles of up and down, I reach what looked to be all down hill from here. I looked to my side pouch for a snack for some energy,  I found double shot espresso gu.  This was left over from the marathon I ran exactly one year ago before. This was much more challenging than that marathon. The gu and the downhill trek had me moving fast. I flew down that mountain and was so relieved when I got to where the road was paved and plowed in a small, sleepy cabin town resting just below the mountain.

Sadly this wasn't the end of my exhausting day. I then had to follow this road up and down the mountain range to my destination, but at least it was paved and I was no longer trudging through snow. With five miles left until my destination, a sweet woman saw me and asked if I wanted a ride. YES! She and her husband loved camping in their younger days she told me. She dropped me off at the entrance to Canaan Valley Lodge. There is a mile and a half walk from the entrance to the lodge. Excited though, I move.

This place is pretty cool. A recreational lodge on state park property, cross country skiing, downhill skiing, ice skating in the winter and white water rafting, tubing, etc in the summer. Only pet friendly rooms they have are cabins. So, I'm in a six person cabin, sprawled out and thawing out. However, It is one of their rustic cabins though, so no TV, phone, or Internet. Going to give the snow a day to melt some before heading back out there.

I'm so ready for this winter to be over. I want to see flowers blooming and green return to these wretched trees. I want to feel the Sun on my face and the wind at my back.

Nothing makes you feel more alive than fighting for your life. I was worried up there for awhile but, all is good. Thank you readers.

"All of these clouds will disappear
Like we were never here
But I swear there was a time I thought that it would never stop
And now I only think about you if it's raining or it's not"

Such a beautiful day!  High of sixty, slight cloud cover, gorgeous breeze.

Unfortunately I was waiting on one more package before I could leave Keyser and the post office doesn't receive mail deliveries until 1pm. After I left the hotel I went down to the post office and waited.

While standing outside waiting with Brown a woman handed me $10!  This has never happened to me before, I didn't know what to do.  I refused and told her that I'm not in need, but that I am a hiker, crossing the country on foot. She said: then I was definitely in need and put the money in my hands. I thanked her for her generosity and continued my hour and a half wait for the post man. Going inside periodically to check if the truck got there early. While inside a man came in, having seen my dog outside with his pack on, he knew that a hiker was near. He informed me that he is also a long distance hiker and had just completed the Pacific Crest Trail and had come in to ask if there was anything I needed. I told him I was doing well and didn't need anything at the moment. Finally 1pm rolled around and the post ladies went to the back and dug through everything to get to my package first. They were so kind and I was so happy to finally be able to get back on the trail.

I headed out of town and began the up and down and left and right of these mountainous, winding country roads. About an hour later as I'm singing to Brown, a car pulls along side of me and a couple inside asked if I'm on the ADT. I said yea! They thought it was really cool and offered me a Powerade.  Sweet, sweet nectar as the sun made a powerful stand in the sky, I gulped down that Powerade. I continued walking and began to understand why this is the Mountain State.

Further down the road, a woman pulled along side of me and held out her hand with a $5 bill and said take this, there is a church up the street where you and your dog can get some water. I thanked her for her kindness and took the money.  I understood this to mean that the church had a store where I could purchase water.  No. The church has a natural spring running through it. Cold and refreshing; although with the recent chemical spill in WV, I did worry slightly about drinking the water in this state. However,  not sure of where I would camp tonight and the availability of water there, I decided to fill up all my water bottles. I taped a post card depicting nuns hula hooping to the front door with a thank you note on the back.

Since I just received a resupply box, my pack was already crazy heavy, now it was ridiculous. Walking is much more enjoyable on the days leading up to a resupply box pick up. Anyway I walked on, just keep moving. My mother's voice inside my head from when I was a pudgy overweight kid and she was trying to make me exercise.  Brown was looking beat and I spotted a picnic table that would be a good place to rest. We ended up calling it a day there/here.

I think West Virginia might be where angels go to hang out because everyone I've encountered has been absolutely wonderful and kind.

Thank you readers for your support.  Your comments and messages help me feel less alone out here. Especially since Brown won't talk to me. I leave you with a poem I wrote back in 2011. I must have subconsciously known then that I was going to be an explorer on a crazy adventure.

"I wanna see the sun set on a new horizon, visit a new expanse of canvas where the brush strokes spread adventure across my heart and drain the loneliness from my eyes.

I wanna dance on mountain tops, plunge into rivers as if they were dew drops that grace an emerald frontier, expansive beyond the periphery, claiming all the territiory of a soaring canary.

I want to challenge the imaginary, defeat the ordinary and compose my spymphony amidst the clashing tide, diamond reflections glitter the way you shine."

I'm OK! I've been without cell phone reception since Saturday night. Which is why I haven't been able to update. I'll try to recant the the last few days here.

Sunday was a nice clear day. A little warm at first, so I took off my beanie and gloves and continued. There's a NPS C&O Canal museum just outside Hancock, MD I wanted to check out, however,  like so many things on the trail it was closed for winter. As I reached the town of Hancock it became a little chilly and I went to put my gloves back on. No!!! I was devastated to find that one of my gloves had fallen out. Fortunately there is a bike shop in Hancock, right on the trail, surely they sell gloves. I head across the canal and towards the bike shop. Closed for winter. I became so frustrated. With no other choice, I march on.

I reached cacapon junction campsite. A lovely campsite. I ate an entire box of Kraft macaroni & cheese by the fire.

The next morning was a little slow going. I had a slight case of the Mondays if you will.

I love that the scenery around me is changing. More mountains and cliffs, so beautiful. I passed an old cement mine that used the canal to transport goods. I'm often passing ruins of old buildings, which I find fascinating.

The temperature on Monday was warm and glorious. We took our lunch break at Fifteen Mile Creek where there are rope swings, I bet in the summer this place is awesome! I saw a sign that said "food this way" and followed it to a small canoe rental place. Sadly closed for winter. I settled on my packet of tuna fish,  one mayo packet, one spicy mustard packet. The sun felt so nice Brown and I layed out and a short siesta. After our break I put my head phones in and jammed to the next campsite. 

Stickpile Hill Campsite! Finally! It was a long day. I was so happy to see that there was already chopped firewood in the fire pit. However, this site sandwiched between two mountains must have had all of its snow cover melt that day because there was not one dry spot anywhere. In some spots very muddy.  For dinner I had mashed potatoes and gravy. Then layed on the picnic table and stared at the stars. Beautiful, bright and clear.

I turned in for the night and discovered that my thermarest prolite had sprung a leak. Ugh. Cold, wet ground beneath me, it was a miserable night. I barely got any sleep, between shivering and tossing and turning it was a terrible nights rest.

I was excited for the next day. Tuesday, I knew I was going to get to Paw Paw Tunnel.  I have been looking forward to this for most of the trip so far. It did not disappoint!

Leading up to the tunnel, water cascades off the cliffs around you. So beautiful. The tunnel is 3,100 feet long. It was at least 10 degrees colder inside and pitch black in the center. All you could see is the light at the end of the tunnel. I switched on my head lamp and saw bats within arms reach!

This tunnel turned my day around. Definitely the best part of the trip thus far.  I took my lunch break at the Paw Paw campground and stripped down to my bathing suit and soaked up the sun. Side note readers: I'm a Floridian through and through.  The town of Paw Paw is just over the Potomac River, I headed into town hoping to get enough cell phone reception to call my niece and wish her a happy birthday. Sadly, no luck. While in Paw Paw I stopped at the gas station picked up and scarfed down an ice cream sandwich and brought back to the campground a bag of Utz baby back rib flavored chips (bbq), pecan pin wheels and duct tape.

Still sore from the night before, I decided to call it a half day and stay at the Paw Paw campground. I tried using the duct tape to fix my mattress. Nope. While my mattress was still unable to stay inflated at least the ground was dry and soft. I roasted the pecan pin wheels over the fire,  mmm.

I was pretty sure a rain storm was on the way, without cell reception, I didn't know what to expect. I packed up early and headed out. It rained on and off varying from drizzle to downpour. I made it to Potomac Forks Campsite, where fortunately the old lock master house had a covered porch. I ate my tuna packet lunch and rested briefly waiting for the rain to lighten up. When it did, we got moving.

Two miles later I reached Oldtown, MD. While not the end of the C&O Canal, it is the end of the American Discovery Trail in Maryland. Here I said goodbye to Maryland and crossed the Potomac River into West Virginia.

A major difference between the two states already is elevation. The trail in Maryland was flat, here, not so much. Also, there isn't a trail, I'm on country roads, no sidewalk. Walking on the side of the road with cars zipping by is a little scary. I continued my walk, not sure how far I was going to go, as there aren't campsites here as there were on the C&O. Camping would mean either trespassing or walking down a never ending driveway to ask a homeowner if I could camp in their yard/field.

As I was walking an older angel pulled up in his Geo Tracker and asked how far I was headed. Not too sure, I said the next town I was supposed to hit, Fort Ashby, hoping it was on his way. It was, he was headed there to do some fishing. I jumped in, Brown jumped on my lap and we sped off into town. After talking to the man, he informed me of the storm moving through that evening. Thank goodness for that, I would never have known.  He dropped me off in town and I went to Subway to charge my phone and check for reception. I scarfed down a foot long and Brown had a 6 inch turkey sub.

Charged up I checked the weather, a low of 9 with wind gusts up to 30 mph, thunderstorms then snow were supposed to hit the area. I needed a room for the night. Sadly the only hotel in Fort Ashby had burned down. Ironic because it was adjacent to the fire department. Anyway next closest hotel was 14 miles away in Keyser, WV. Ugh. It was 4:30 and I had already been walking since 8am. (Minus the 10 minute ride from my angel friend).

Well, staying put and complaining to myself wouldn't get me out of the storm, so I get moving. I had three hours until temperatures were expected to drop and six hours of walking after that to get to Keyser.

I passed a cow pasture alongside the road. Brown went right up to the fence and the cows approached to say hi. Brown gave them some kisses but we had to keep moving. The cows followed us for as long as their fence would allow. Walking to Keyser, the wind had picked up. In some places stopping me in my tracks, it reminded me of hurricanes in south Florida.

Tired, sore, blistered, chafed, I encountered another angel. Corey.  He and his wife saw me walking along WV-46 and thought I could use a lift. He dropped her off and came back for me! He gave me a lift the rest of the way into Keyser.

In all, not including my two rides, I walked 24 miles yesterday.  While it never snowed, I'm happy to be out of the elements. I smelled awful and my hands had so much dirt embedded in them it took two bars of soap to get them clean.

I'm taking a day off to grab my mail, do laundry, attempt to collect on my lifetime warranty of my thermarest and relax. 

Sorry for the delay and thank you for reading.

"And I will sleep out in the glade just by the giant tree
Just to be closer when my spirit's pulled away
I left a nervous little boy out on the trail today
He's just a mortal to the shouting cavalcade"

What a great day! Only the last two miles were challenging.

I left Williamsport this morning, sun shining, temperatures climbing. I hopped on the trail and headed out of town. Most of the snow had melted and I was happy to be walking on semi dry ground.

We walked eleven miles to North Mountain where we took our lunch break. While we were eating two women on horseback rode by. Brown wants to meet a horse very badly, he thinks all animals want to play with him. My mom and I used to go horseback riding when I was younger, I always remember it being a lot of fun.

On the trail today I saw four fishermen, seven runners, two horseback riders, and fourteen walkers. I also saw a strange forest dweller today.  Walked on all fours a little larger than a racoon. All brown, tailless. My first instinct said small monkey. Maybe I was just dehydrated.

Usually when I first get to camp I collect water from the Potomac River because all of the pumps at the campsites are off for the winter. Unfortunately at this campsite the Potomac is a little further through the trees, and is lower than usual.  The lower the river, the steeper the bank and the Potomac is a muddy beast. Covered in Potomac sludge, lugging five liters of water and two river stones, I head back to camp. It takes thirty minutes to purify the water and in the meantime I go on a quest for firewood.

Fire built and raging, I cook dinner. I ate an entire box of stove top stuffing while warming my feet on river stones.
While in Shepherdsville I ate at a Chinese take out. By the register for thirty five cents they were selling ginger packets with honey crystals, raw sugar and of course ginger.
After I ate all the stuffing I heated water for my ginger drink. Side note: I only have one pot to cook with. Anyway, it was delicious and spicy. I lingered by the fire for a bit and then crawled into the tent with Brown.

This campsite is somewhat near a major highway and there are train tracks across the river, so much noise pollution!

Supposed to get some rain around midnight. Hopefully nothing too bad.  Looking forward to another great day tomorrow!

Thank you readers and good night.


" But I hope you could hear
All the screams from the forest
All the ghosts in the trees
And the love of a dog
Let us float in the tears
Let us cry from the laughters
When it's not for some sake
And the city's not near"